Thursday, January 6, 2011

The Flufflebottom Sweater, a work in progress

*****EDITS FROM COMMENTS HAVE BEEN ADDED TO THE PATTERN.  REPRINT IF YOU ARE UNSURE THAT YOU HAVE THE UPDATED VERSION BEFORE CASTING ON. ******


Here's a preview of the Flufflebottom sweater.
If you find errors, please note them in the comments and I'll edit the pattern as we go.  Be aware that I have only knit this on the one time and am releasing my notes as a courtesy to those who have asked for it.  There are bound to be a few places where it is less polished than I'd hope it to be.

Important Info:
Sized 18-24 months
(Need to double check gauge, but I tend to knit worsted on size 6 needles at 4.5 spi)
worsted weight yarn, I used 100Purewool that had been kettle-dyed with Kool Aid
size 6 needles, 16" and either DPNs or your preferred small circ method
yarn needle
stitch markers

CO 44
row 1: k2 pm, k9, pm, k22, pm, k9, pm, k2
row 2: P across

row 3: slip one, k to 1 st before marker, YO, k1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before second marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before third marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before fourth marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, K to end.

**** Insert a "sl 1, P to end" row here.*****


Increase rows:
row 4: slip one, K f&b into next stitch k to 1 st before marker, YO, k1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before second marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before third marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before fourth marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, K to 2 sts from end, k F&b and k last stitch.
row 5: slip one, P across

Repeat rows 4 and 5 until there are 33 stitches between the first and second markers.

Eliminate the front opening:
On next RS row, K in increase pattern as for rows 3 and 4 until 2 stitches before the end.
Join in the round:

In the following paragraph, the left side refers to the left as you if you were wearing the sweater.
Prepare to join in the round by arranging the last two stitches of the right front flap to alternate with the first two stitches on the left side. In other words, the stitch order will be: right flap 2nd to last stitch, left flap 1st stitch, right flap last stitch, left flap second stitch. K2tog, PM, K2tog. You will now have a joined piece and be ready to knit on the left side of the front of the sweater. You may wish to use a special marker to denote that this is the center front.

Knit one round, maintaining markers as in row 5 before joining in the round.

Continue increase rows as follows:

Row A: k to 1 st before marker, YO, k1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before second marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before third marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before fourth marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, K to the end of the round.

Row B: K to end.

Complete 5 rounds of rows A and B.

Separating sleeves from body:
K to marker 1, place all stitches between marker 1 and 2 onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn, CO 9 stitches, K to marker 3, place all stitches between marker 3 and 4 on a holder, CO 9 stitches, K to
end. Remove all markers as you go around. When you reach the end of the round, move round marker to be under the right armpit.
Body

K until work measures 10.5” or about 4" from desired length.
K in roman stitch for 14 rounds:

Row 1: K1, P1 around.
Row 2: P1, K1 around.

Row 3-6: K
Row 7:K1, P1 around.
Row 8: P1, K1 around.
Row 9-12: K
Row 13: K1, P1 around.
Row 14: P1, K1 around.

Ruffle: add or subtract a few stitches, as needed at round end.
Row 1: *(P3 K1) to end. End with K1.
Row 2: *(P3, YO, K1, YO) *repeat to end

Row 3: *(P3, K3) *repeat to end

Row 4: *(P3, YO, K3, YO) *repeat to end
Row 5: *(P3, K5) *repeat to end
Row 6: *(P3, YO, K5, YO) *repeat to end.
Row 7: *(P3, K7) *repeat to end.
Repeat row 7 until the ruffle reaches your desired length. Bind off in pattern.

SLEEVES:

Place stitches from the stitch holder for one arm on either DPNs or a 12" circular needle. Pick up one stitch on either end of the circular from the fabric of the body. join yarn, PM, and pick up the 9 CO stitches under the armpit (OPTIONAL: K TBL as you pick up these are stitches to make the seam less visible), K 2tog, Knit to 2 st before end of round, K2tog.
The K2tog removes the extra stitches you picked up on either side of the armpit and closes the holes that naturally occur in those areas.

K 10 rounds.
Arms taper slightly:

After ten rows decrease one at the end of the round.
After 5 additional rows decrease one st at end of the round. Continue to reduce by one stitch every 6th round until arms are 3" from desired length.

Finish sleeve with 3" of ribbing. I chose to do a reversible baby cable ribbing,.
R1: P2, K2
R2:  Purl 2 together, don't drop, purl first stitch again, drop both.
R3: P2, K2
R4: P2, K2 together, don't drop, knit the first stitch again, drop both.

NECKLINE:

Pick up stitches around the neckline.  I picked up 2 of every 3 stitches up each side and each stitch across the back of the neck.  Knit in p1 k1 ribbing around the neck, back and forth until the ribbed area is about 1 1/4" wide.  Tack down ends at the V of the neckline with one side overlapping the other.


7 comments:

Carol said...

Lacy bottom toddler dress or sweater would sound a whole lot better and tells it like it is.

Tracy aka Mad Quilter said...

Hi, I'm knitting this and I noticed after the join you need to have a plain row of knit before you start increasing again or the increase pattern isn't maintained :) I'm just up to there right now.
Yep, You NEED to rename it lol it's too cute to be known as the Upchuck, can you name it for one of your cutie pies?

Tracy aka Mad Quilter said...

Me again! I joined the front but I think there's a problem. After the first increase row there are 50 stitches in the back and only 30 in the front section

Tracy aka Mad Quilter said...

Increase rows:
row 3: slip one, k to 1 st before marker, YO, k1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before second marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before third marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before fourth marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, K to end.



Ok I think what's wrong is there is an increase missing at the beginning and end of row?


So would it be:

Increase rows:
row 3: slip one, K f&b into next stitch k to 1 st before marker, YO, k1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before second marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before third marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before fourth marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, K to 2 sts from end, k F&b and k last stitch.

Tracy aka Mad Quilter said...

ok keep row three as is but then have row 5 increase. As in row 3 there are only two stitches before first marker

Increase rows:
row 5 and every other row: slip one, K f&b into next stitch k to 1 st before marker, YO, k1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before second marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before third marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, k to 1 st before fourth marker, YO, K1, SM, K1, YO, K to 2 sts from end, k F&b and k last stitch.

Tracy aka Mad Quilter said...

I finished it.
http://madquilter.blogspot.com/2011/02/heathers-upchuck-sweater.html
I did shorten the sleeves and length and added a crochet edge to the neckline.
Thanks for the pattern :)
I hope you are all feeling better.

TheCraftyQueen said...

Edits based on comments up to this point have been added to the blog posting of the pattern.